Northern Wairoa River
Welcome to New Zealand's longest navigable river, which provided a lifeline to the Northern Wairoa district for a century and is now taking on a new lease of life as a recreational and tourist destination.
One hundred and fifty two kilometers of Northern Wairoa River begins at the confluence of the Mangakahia and Wairua rivers, the latter having its source only a few kilometres from Northlands east coast. It is further boosted by a number of other river systems before flowing into the Kaipara Harbour.
The river and the harbour were once the country's busiest waterways, with Brett's Almanac citing the river as navigable for 67 kilometres by large boats and 100 kilometers by smaller vessels. It has been estimated that in its heyday as many as 80 ships were on the water or tied up at wharves at peak times.
Northern Wairoa developed around the river which provided transport for the thriving timber, gum and flax industries, and was a communication lifeline for early settlers.
Regular services ran from Dargaville as far upstream to Tangiteroria and books record tips to the base of the impressive Wairua falls still further upstream.
For many years an overnight steamer to Helensville and then a train was the best way for Dargaville residents to travel to Auckland, and it was not until 1942 that improving road and rail links made this service redundant.
From 1902 the river gave the Northern Wairoa Dairy Company an ideal means of transporting cream to its Mangawhare factory.
Towns like Dargaville, Tangiteroria, Pukehuia, Manawhare, Te Kopuru, Aratapu and Ruawai developed along its banks, frequently built around timber mills, and in some cases, boatbuilding.
One large mill at Te Kopuro, ten kilometres south of Dargaville, is credited with sawing 267 million super feet of timber.
Access to kauri timber and a waterway made boatbuilding a significant riverside industry linked with names such as James Barbour (Aratapu) and Brown and Son (Te Kopuru). The demise of these industries in some cases also saw the associated towns all but disappear. Aratapu, for example, was once a thriving centre of 2000 people of which little remains.
Extensive drainage has allowed the Northern Wairoa River's flood plain to become Northland's most productive dairying and cropping land, earning the title of New Zealand's "Kumera Capital".
On a loop road 17 kilometers south of Waipoua is the Trounson Kauri Reserve which, while small by comparison contains excellent kauri and has a 40 minute walking track, much of it on a raised boardwalk.
Trounson is currently being developed as Northland's only "mainland island" where pests have been reduced to minimal levels and the surrounding farmland, plus bait and trapping stations, are being used as an "ocean" barrier to prevent reinfestation.
Night walks area available in summer and offer a fair chance of seeing kiwi and also to view the bush from a different perspective. The reserve has an excellent way to view Northaland's kauri history is to visit the Kauri Museum at Matakohe, take a tour back in time with Kauri Country Safaris.
Present day use of ancient kauri dug from swamps is well demonstrated by a visit to one of the district's quality wood turners.
Near the Waipoua River bridge is the short Rickers (young kauri) track, overlooking the river and densly populated with young kauri.
The Yakas Track is a six kilometre continuation of the walkway to the Cathedral Grove, ending at the headquarters and which can be taken in either direction. Part are muddy and the Waipoua River has to be crossed.
Cabins, campervan and camp sites are available at the visitor centre and there are also a variety of camping grounds, lodge style accomodation and homestays within easy distance of the forest.
The Waipoua area has a long historical connection with local tangata whenua (people of the land) Te Iwi o Te Roroa, who take considerable interest in its management.